A few mistakes were made in Unique Handmade Books. I will try to post corrections and clarifications as I find them. If you think you have found an error in the book, please write and tell me.

p. 14 Diagram: the third diagram, "layout (back)," is incorrect. It should have been this one.


p. 16 The Brush Book

Dimensions: If you are using 8 1/2" x 11" paper, three sheets of 8 1/2" x 11 paper should be trimmed to 8" x 11". One sheet should be trimmed to 8 1/2" x 10". Use the first three sheets to make the pages as written in steps 1,2 and 3. Use the fourth sheet for step 4, Then follow this alternative step:
5. Cut one of the strips in half lengthwise, again. Then fold one of these thinner strips in half lengthwise.
Now follow remaining steps 6-15.

Note: an alternative to cutting the strip to make it thinner is to make it thicker, with more folds. Fold the strip from the original step 5 in half. Open. Then fold the ends in to the middle fold (this is all lengthwise). Refold in half lengthwise. Then continue with step 6.

The diagram for the interior piece (steps 14 & 15) appears to be confusing. Here is some clarification:
Think of a Japanese sidebound book where the pages do not open completely. For that book, once it is bound, you can fold the pages so that they open better, but not all the way. The spine strip functions as the sewing does on a sidebound book. The very center of the book is where the two sections appear to separate. It is true that the book does not open completely. It does open somewhat. The interior piece or "V" (steps 14 and 15) is so that the book stays together structurally. You should be able to slip that interior piece right in. After that, the book will function like a sidebound structure and should not come apart.


pp. 48-51 The Pocket Triangle and Diamond Book

The book Green Tea on pp.48 & 49 is my specific example for the Pocket Triangle and Diamond Book. This book has only two boards, one slipped into the front cover, one slipped into the back. Each board has a strip that is glued around both of the vertical edges, meaning that each board needs two strips.

Materials: four sheets (or more) of lightweight paper, two pieces of 2-ply or 4-ply museum board slightly smaller than the finished book size, four strips of paper the same height as the boards and the same color as the pockets by 2" wide

Step #31 should say "Repeat step 30 for the remaining board."

Note: Putting 4-ply boards in all of the fore edge pockets would make the book too bulky. In those remaining fore edge pockets, I put a heavyweight card, the same size as the boards, that I cut from Lenox. You could cut more decorative strips and glue them on the edge of the cards. My cards actually have tabs that stick out so you can remove them to view the images on the cards. The museum boards are just to reinforce the book and create a hard cover; they have nothing interesting on them. But of course they could. If you use four sheets of lightweight paper for the pocketed pages, you may also want to add six pieces of heavyweight paper or cardstock the same size as your boards. If you decide to put tabs on the cards, the way I did in Green Tea, make the cards 1/2" wider to include the tab on each one. Or let the cards stick out 1/2", if you like.


p. 90 Circle Accordion Book
Step #7
should say "Repeat steps 4, 5, and 6 for the three remaining sheets."


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